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How to Change a Sailboat Engine in Just One Week by Herry

Clean both flanges using a wire brush. Push the prop shaft flange against the gearbox flange. Ensure the centering rings set in place. Give the flanges a twist back and forth to make sure they are seated well together. Slide a feeler gauge between the flange faces. Measure and mark the area of greatest gap.

Before you proceed rotate the prop shaft one hundred and eighty degrees or a half turn. Check the feeler gauge readings. They should remain constant. If the readings changed from our first measurement then the shaft is bent or the flange is bad. If you find a bent shaft and it exceeds the four thousands tolerance of the alignment then fix that problem before you continue with the alignment.

Often times we suspect the shaft is bent or some other aspect of the drive system is out of true. This simple shaft rotation test confirms the problem or sets our mind at ease. Adjust the engine mounts a bit at a time to close the gap in the flange faces. Keep all four mounts as even as possible. Keep checking alignment till you are within.004". At that time tighten all the mounting bolts and check alignment again. Wiggle and shake the engine as much as you can. On larger engines you may have to get two people pushing and pulling to get the engine to move around. The idea is to make the engine settle on her mounts. Check the alignment again and adjust your mounts to fix any gap that reopened. Keep repeating this procedure until the engine is sitting in perfect alignment.

Expect to take about six hours to do a perfect engine alignment. A good experienced technician can normally complete this process in about an hour. Of course this means all the bolts are loose, clean and access is easy. Tip- Resist the urge to move a single mount that builds up a little pressure on the opposing mount to make a small adjustment. When the rubber in the engine mounts get hot it will soften and fall out of alignment causing the engine to begin vibrating.

Changing the main engine of a boat sounds like a huge project. Cranes, plans, alignment, choosing the right engine, it can all seems overwhelming to the yachtsman. In reality for the DIY changing a main engine in a yacht is relatively straightforward. You don't have to learn all the special skills of a master mechanic as you never rebuild or even work on the diesel engine.

It's a simple matter of removing the old engine, rebuilding the engine mounting rails, and then bolting the new engine in place. It might sound complicated, but it's really rather simple. Do it yourselfers often take over three months to get their engines installed. I have devised a system outlined below where we can change a main engine in just one week. The one-week engine change means the boat, and often the family living area is only torn up for seven days.

Step 1-Buy New, DON'T REBUILD!

This is a very important point. Boat owners will often look at their worn out, leaking, engines wanting a rebuild of the old trusted "friend". Unfortunately the numbers don't add up. Consider that a rebuild job will normally cost about half the price of a new engine. Most rebuilds only come with a short term and local guarantee. In other words head to the islands and if complications arise the local mechanic that rebuilt the engine will want the engine returned to his shop or marina for service.

I come across engines all the time on the cruising circuit that have five hundred hours after a new rebuild. They are blowing and burning oil leaving the owner back to square one. Besides, the price estimate I just gave is only the cost of rebuilding the block. The old heat exchanger, oil cooler, gear box, alternator, and high priced injection pump may still have five thousand original hours on them. Rebuild all of the extra components and your well on your way to the cost of a new engine.

Measure before you pull the old engine

Ask many "do it yourself" yacht owner about an engine change and the sticking points will be:

1. How to measure for the new engine.
2. How to move the new engine.
3. How to make a perfect alignment.

Lets start with how to measure. This semi-simple process takes about two hours and is outlined below.

The Measurement

The measuring technique is the heart of an engine change. The first thing you will need to do is find the existing height of the crankshaft center to the bottom of the existing flexible engine mounts. To do this take a flat edge and lay it across the engine beds. Use this straight line to measure down from the crankshaft center to the engine bed line.

This is your first important figure. This is the line of the prop shaft progressed forward. If the gearbox has an offset, or a drop, then you must add or subtract this figure to your final measurement. Now look at the drawings for the new engine and find the distance from the center of the crank to the engine beds. Add in the gearbox offset if any and you should now have two separate measurements. The difference between them is the thickness you will have to make up, or cut down from the excising mounts to make the new engine fit.

Simple Now that you know

Strangely after many engine changes with this system I have not come across an engine bed that needs to be lowered. For some reason they all have to be raised 10mm to 50mm. The difference between the old engine and new is the all-important measurement. If you got this right then you can have the "adapt a rail" pre-made before you remove the old engine. Lift the old engine, bolt down a pre-made piece of steel rail (to make up the height difference), and set the new engine in place.

Often two inches is the magic number. If you got lucky and the new engine mounts sit exactly two inches high then buy a piece of two by four steel extrusion 5mm or thicker. Lay the new rail right over the old engine beds, bolt them down, and set the new engine in place. Sometimes I have to take the extrusion to a shop and have it cut and welded to the special thickness I need. Either way make this particular, all important adapt-a-rail before you lift the old engine.

Tip-While the old engine is out it is the perfect time to paint the engine area white, and maybe service the bilge hoses or anything else that runs under the engine. Tip 2-Consider installing a series of lights that illuminate the engine from below. Your new engine is going to be very clean and nothing helps keep an area clean like really good lighting.

Price saver

Often the DIY can save a bit of money by measuring, and doing the heavy lifting themselves. Once this is complete call your mechanic to do the alignment and inspection. This can be a win/win for all. The local mechanic gets some of the work and catches the basic mistakes, while the owner pays to have the difficult part of the work completed and yet does the easy work himself.

The Rest of the Fit

You will have to measure width, height, and depth of the new engine along with the motor mounts, but most modern engines are much smaller than the twenty year old diesel you will be removing. The only time size has been a problem has is when we remove a small engine and replace it with a much larger model. The popular Perkins 4-108 is now replaced by a Yanmar that is about 2/3rds the size of the original. The 56hp Yanmar is about the same size as Perkins 4-108 giving almost half again the horsepower.

Lifting the Old Engine

The lifting, and removal of the old engine is the next step of what some do it yourselfers may find overwhelming. I almost always lift from the main boom supported by halyards. I attach a block and tackle to the lifting point and then run the bitter end to a winch. I use a land crane to set the engine on deck then take over myself with a boom lift. I always use two lifting points on every aspect of the lift. If any single line were to break the engine would not fall. The lifting lines are tailed to the two largest sheet winches on the boat.

The crane lifts the engine onto the yacht's deck. Unless you really trust your crane driver it's often better to move the engine by block and tackle the rest of way to the new engine beds where the movement can be controlled with precision.

Lifting the engine using the boat's rig. Pay particular attention to the gooseneck or connection between the boom and the mainmast. As long as the boom is in center line with the boat the load should be in compression, or pushing into the mast. The problem can occur when we attempt to swing the boom out to the side. The load on the gooseneck turns from one of compression to side load. Inspect the gooseneck carefully and keep the load inline with the mast as much as possible.

Tip- If you find you have to lay on top of the engine to reach the flange to measure your weight will almost assuredly change the compression of the mounts and thus your alignment. If this is the case then you will have to find some clever way to keep your weight off the engine while you test the flange. If I have to lay over the engine to work on it lay some carpet over the engine to help keep comfortable. If you're comfortable you can almost always do a better job.

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Article Source: http://www.earticlesonline.com/Article/How-to-Change-a-Sailboat-Engine-in-Just-One-Week/735254

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Bolts Set Stud For Flex Coupling $19.94 Bolts Set Stud For Flex Coupling Set studs and bolts for the Uniflex and Bullflex flexible couplings.

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Park Tool CCW-5C Crank Wrench $10.99 Park Tool CCW-5C Crank Wrench. Now you can get to those hard to reach crank bolts with precision and ease by using the Park Tool CCW-5C Crank Wrench.

Park Crank Wrench and Puller $14 This Park compact crank wrench and puller is perfect for the road or home tool kit. Crank puller has a built-in 8mm hex for removing crank bolts. Two rotating tips (11.3mm and 16.3mm) remove splined Shimano® Octalink and ISIS Drive® crank arms, as well as square-holed crank arms. "Floating" hardened tip ensures smooth operation and long life.

JRP996142 Blade Bolts Set : V3D $2.99 JRP996142 Blade Bolts Set : V3D Type: Replacement Parts Color: Multi-Color Gender: Unisex Age: Adult

Crank (Paperback) $24.65 Written in verse, Kristina`s harrowing story of drug addiction, pregnancy, and despair is collected in this gripping box set. The 17-year-old led a normal life until the wrong boyfriend stepped into the picture, helping to trap her in the clutches of crystal meth. Her journey from addiction to getting clean and going back is chronicled in Ellen Hopkins`s bestselling books CRANK and GLASS. This is a paperback box set.

Boaters Nuts & Bolts DVD Set $97.94 Boaters Nuts & Bolts DVD Set BOATERS NUTS & BOLTS DVD SETSBOATNUT3DVD Includes: What to do When things Go Wrong, Improve Your Boating Skills & Knowledge, Inboard Power BoatingOur team of professionals will give you a "Hands-on" course to increase your knowledge & skills as a skipper. Teaches:Operating Maneuvering Docking Fueling & anchoring Inboard power, hull choices & drive options Boat handling Communications & electronics Common problems & solutions Preventative maintenance tips The "fix it" shop

A1A WINDSCREEN BOLTS $31.99 A1A Sportbike's new unique 2 piece modular spiked windscreen bolts are the next evolution in custom sportbike products. Works on all Japanese sportbike windscreensWindscreen Bolts come in a set of 6.Designed to fit all metric sportbikes.No need for extra hardware.These can also be used as fairing bolts on many bikes.Dimensions: 1/2 inch wide, 1/2 inch wide5mm threads

165110 Elevator Crank Set - Shogun 400 $3.5 165110 Elevator Crank Set - Shogun 400 Type: Replacement Parts Color: Multi-Color Gender: Unisex Age: Adult

WOODCRAFT CRANK COVER PROTECTOR $85.49 Woodcraft 2-piece engine covers are designed to keep your bike oil tight in the event of a crash as well as to give your bike a custom look that will make you stand out from the crowd. All of Woodcraft's covers are 100% CNC-machined from 6061 billet aluminum to give you both great looks and exceptional strength. The patented replaceable stainless steel or aluminum skid plate adds wear resistance in the most vulnerable area and can keep your cover both functional and looking good through multiple crashes. The plate is internally bolted and o-ring sealed so that you don't have to worry about trying to remove bolts with the heads ground off should it be damaged.Right hand side crank cover protector.As a crank cover protector, this piece bolts over the top of the large crankshaft assembly cover and protects it in its most vulnerable area.Comes with the trademark Woodcraft removable stainless steel skid pad; other materials and colors sold separately.All gaskets included (if necessary).All mounting hardware included.NOTE: If you order the double-thick aluminum skid pad, there is a small amount of trimming required with the O.E.M. bodywork.

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Crank Calls $12.99 Crank Calls

Crank Brothers Joplin 4 Seatpost $249.99 Crank Brothers Joplin 4 Seatpost. If your favorite trail throws as many sweeping downhill sections at you as it does long, uphill lungbusters, you probably spend a lot of time changing your saddle height along the way.You can thank Crank Brothers for making the adjustment process faster,easier and a heck of a lot more convenient. With four inches of travel, the Joplin 4 adjustable seatpost lets you set the optimal saddle height for whatever type of terrain you encounter. With just a flick of the clever little lever tucked discretely beneath the nose of your saddle, you can instantly lower your saddle for descents, and just as quickly return it to the perfect height for the next climb--without the hassle of dismounting and fiddling with your seatpost collar. Just unweight and depress the lever. And if that doesn't strike you as being convenient enough, then check out the Joplin 4 adjustable seatpost with handlebar-mounted remote. Same great features with the added ease of fingertip actuation.

Crank Trilogy Boxed Set (Paperback) $44.11 Description not available.

U-bolts for Trampoline Enclosure 1.75 in Wide (10 set) $19.95 This set comes complete with everything you need to get your Trampoline Enclosure up so your kids can play in a safer environment. Included: 10 U-bolts + Steel. 10 Spacers. 20 Screw Set Wingnuts. Specifications: Inner arch width measures 1 1/2 Inch. Width just after threading terminates 1 3/4 Inch. This U-Bolt will fit on a trampoline leg with a maximum width of 1 3/4". Some trampolines have 2" diameter legs, so make sure to measure the width of your trampoline legs before purchasing these u-bolts! Type: Trampolines & Bouncers Color: Silver Color Mapping: Silver

Spinervals 19.0 Bending Crank Arms DVD $24.99 Spinervals 19.0 Bending Crank Arms DVD. Join internationally known coach Troy Jacobson for an intense cycling workout that produces results. Each Spinervals DVD training session is geared toward a specific skill set allowing you to focus on the area of cycling that you want to improve.

Crank Brothers Candy 2 Pedals - Special Edition $59.99 Crank Brothers Candy 2 Pedals - Special Edition. Weighing in slightly lighter than their sibling, the Candy 3, these mountain pedals are designed to take convenience to a whole new level. The easy entry and mud-shedding capabilities of the Candy 2's really set them apart from the competition.

Yakima 5/16'' x 2-1/2'' Bolts - set of 4 $7 This Yakima car rack replacement part is a cap head used on most Yakima accessories. Yakima part # 8880012.

Yakima 1/4'' x 2-1/4'' Bolts - set of 4 $5 This car rack replacement part is a cap head used on Yakima Ski Mounts, Wheel Fork and Fairing. Yakima part # 8880011.

OTC Harmonic Balancer Puller/Installer Set. Each $124.64 Manufacturer: OTC. Each. Features and Benefits: For easy removal of most harmonic balancers and drive pulleys which are pressed fitted onto the crank shaft A bearing-centered circular 2/3-way and an assortment of metric and fractional bolts and adapters

Pedal Id 1:9 Scale Bicycle: Crank With Pedal Set: Purple $6.99 *Includes 6 pedals*Pvc/ABS plastic construction*Officially licensed Pedal ID product*Mix and match components*Blister card packaging*Brand newCustomizing your wheels with a little purple passion has never been so fun! The Pedal ID Purple Crank With Pedal Set allows you to customize your model bicycle in a style that's uniquely you and one of a kind. Unlimited possibilites await you!

Crank (Blu-ray Disc) $16.44 Screenwriters and directors Mark Neveldine and Brian Taylor make their feature-film debut in this fast-paced action film. Freelance hitman Chev Chelios (Jason Statham) wakes up with a big problem; a DVD left in his apartment by smalltime gangster Ricky Vanero (Jose Pablo Cantillo) tells him that he has only one hour to live. While Chev was asleep, Vanero injected him with a deadly synthetic drug from China--known as the Beijing Cocktail--as payback for Chev`s last hit. Now, Chev`s only hope to stay alive is to keep his adrenalin pumping. Dead set on revenge against Vanero, Chev also has to keep his girlfriend, Eve (Amy Smart), out of the mob`s hands. To complicate matters, na¿ve, sweet Eve has no idea that her charming British boyfriend is a hitman. Even worse, Chev`s boss, Carlito (Carlos Sanz) has no intention of helping his favorite freelancer.Luckily, Chev`s friend Doc Miles (Dwight Yoakam) can offer some temporary lifesaving advice; his drugged pal has to keep moving. Downing cans of Red Bull and popping over-the-counter energy pills, Chev is a crazed man on a mission. He has to exact revenge on Vanero, save his girlfriend, and find an antidote, all while keeping his slowing heart pumping. Fear, sex and violence are the best way to keep adrenalin flowing, and there`s no shortage of any of them in this nonstop action flick. Extreme chase scenes, shootouts, and romance abound, along with plenty of clipped dialogue and just enough dark humor. Statham plays Chev with a perfect combination of steely determination and utter insanity--a guy who is finally trying to do the right thing, even if it means killing lots of people along the way. Cantillo`s Vanero is a little fish playing in a very big pond, but not quite the player he thinks he is.

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